Out And Back: Chido Burrito

We all mature in different ways, at different speeds and at different times. Our tastes change, evolve, become more grown-up. We stop liking things we used to, start liking things we didn't, and want better versions of the things we already like.

Basically what I'm saying here is that there comes a time when you want - nay, need - more from a taco than Taco Bell's ever going to give you.

That's the impulse that sent me to Chido Burrito last week.

807 Tilton Road, Northfield, N.J.

Chido Burrito considers itself a brother to the American-Mexican division of the "fast casual" movement - your Chipotles, your Moe's, your Qdobas, for those needing context. This is evident when you walk in and are confronted with a massive menu board and a floor-to-ceiling-length imitation straw umbrella right in the middle of the seating area. In fact, it's probably made out of wood. See the surfboards in the parking lot up there? That's their thing - surf themes are all over the music and TV screens.

After being greeted by a younger, taller Topanga look-alike, the second thing I noticed was the meat and chicken being cooked on the grill in the background. Actually see the food being cooked has always been oddly reassuring to me, and I've never understood why. It doesn't mean anything. I mean, do we know what kind of meat that is? I kid, or course. I think.

So I got the three beef tacos. They don't have pico de gallo in the strictest sense so I settled for a tiny bit of diced tomatoes. (Despite being practically a New Jersey native, I've never been a whole tomato guy. Shrug.) Add lettuce and cheese, throw some chips on the side and we're ready to pay, get sauces and eat.

The first bite? Good. The hard shell was crunchy but not brittle, so there's not much danger of half the filling ending up on the plate or in far less appetizing places. The beef, pulled and shredded, was juicy and not chewy at - wait, what? The beef is juicy?

This completely threw me off, though I had to not show it because the place had filled up behind me by the time I sat down. But in all seriousness, I had never eaten a taco - not even the ones I make for myself - with meat in it that actually dripped juices. Especially beef - it's always either a little overcooked or so dry and unsubstantial that you've gotta load stuff on it just to feel like you're eating something. I'm not exaggerating when I tell you that this was a minor revelation. It'll also put any concerns you may have about the authenticity of the meat to rest.

A couple bites later, though, I discovered a serious problem. The sauces that they put out had no flavor whatsoever. No heat, no spice, no kick of any kind, nothing. I had three different ones (different colors, even!) and they could have all been the same or not been there at all for what they added to the meal. That'll be hard to get past.

A few other things:

• They sell churros (Seriously! Where else outside an amusement park are you getting churros?)
• The fries come coated with what I imagine is their house spice blend that was too strong for a couple of kids in the place
• It is fortunate that they don't cling to the idea of "authentic Mexican" because the presence of fries, along with hot wings, on the menu would call that into serious question

I feel like there's potential here. That sauce thing has got to be fixed, and maybe the tacos aren't actually the best thing on the menu, but it wasn't bad overall.